Scotland: Edinburgh
We visited Edinburgh over Martin Luther King, Jr. Weekend in January 2024. It wasn’t the ideal flight situation, in that the flight wasn’t until the evening of the Friday we had off, but the price was right and it the flight back on Monday was in the late afternoon. We knew it would be a short weekend so planned to stay only in the city center versus trying to venture out into the country side.
Getting from the airport to the city center was affordable and easy using the tram. We bought tickets once we arrived from the kiosk but you can also buy them ahead of time. It was probably about 45 minutes on the tram to Princes Street, where we got off and then walked the 12 minutes to our hotel. We stayed at the Grassmarket Hotel, which was right at the bottom of Victoria Street, famous for being the inspiration behind Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series. I absolutely loved this location. Being there in January, I wouldn’t say it was peak tourism season and things didn’t feel overwhelmingly crowded. During summer or peak travel times, this area might feel like a bit much (in my opinion) and would likely get a bit loud at night. It was perfect for us however and gave us easy access to Victoria Street, the Grassmarket public market, the Royal Mile, and public transportation. The rooms were clean, breakfast was served in the pub next door, and the customer service was lovely.
Here are some of the highlights from our trip:
Food
Makar’s Mash Bar: This cozy little spot was a total gem—comfort food done right. They specialize in gourmet mashed potatoes (yes, really), and each dish felt like a warm hug on a cold January evening. It’s hearty Scottish fare with a modern twist, perfect after a day of walking around the city in the wind and drizzle.
Mother India’s Cafe: Whenever we are outside of Italy, we seek out international cuisines and almost always try to find good Indian food, since we do not have any near us. This did not disappoint. It’s a tapas-style Indian restaurant, so you can try lots of different dishes without overcommitting. Everything was incredibly flavorful, and the service was fast and kind. If you’re craving something spicy and satisfying, this is a must.
The Edinburgh Larder: A great brunch spot just off the Royal Mile with a focus on local ingredients and simple, honest food. The vibe was relaxed, the coffee strong, and they had highchairs available (which is always a bonus when traveling with littles). One of the waiters was actually from Southern Italy and brought our son some extra treats when he heard me speaking with him in Italian.
The Sights
St. Giles’ Cathedral: Right in the heart of the Royal Mile, this stunning cathedral is free to enter and breathtaking inside. The stained glass, vaulted ceilings, and Thistle Chapel were all gorgeous. It’s not a long visit—maybe 30 minutes—but absolutely worth popping in as you stroll the Mile.
Edinburgh Castle: This iconic landmark towers over the city and is such a dramatic, beautiful place to visit—even if your toddlers don’t care much for history. We took turns chasing the kids around the esplanade while the other parent ducked inside various rooms. The views alone were worth the admission price. To this day (almost 2 years later) one of my favorite memories of my son was when he and his best friend went into one of the chapels and my friend and I were trying to explain to them that it was a special, sacred place and we needed to be quiet and respectful. My son’s friend yelled, “Then why are we here?! Let’s go!” and grabbed my son’s hand. Needless to say, now at almost 4.5 years old my son has gotten much better at staying quiet in sacred spaces.
Victoria Street: Probably the most photographed street in Edinburgh—and for good reason. It winds down like something out of a storybook, with colorful facades and quirky little shops. We stopped for coffee, browsed books, and pointed out “Hogwarts-y” looking features to my son. It felt magical, especially for us Harry Potter lovers.
The Royal Mile: It’s touristy, yes, but also undeniably charming. We strolled up and down it every day—partly because so many things are centered around it, and partly because it’s just fun. Street performers, tartan shops, pubs, and the occasional bagpipe serenade gave it a festive energy.
Greyfriars Kirkyard: Okay, hear me out—yes, it’s a graveyard, but it’s also full of history and oddly peaceful. We visited as part of the Harry Potter walking tour. It’s also where you’ll find the grave of Greyfriars Bobby (the loyal little dog), and the statue was a big hit with our two-year-old. If you’re a Harry Potter fan, this is also where some of the character name inspirations came from.
Whisky
The Johnnie Walker Whisky Experience: We pre-booked a table for drinks (we did not do the tour) and it was perfect. We had no issues bringing kids and the view from the outdoor terrace overlooking the castle at sunset quite literally altered my brain chemistry. It was magical.
The Port of Leith Distillery: We stopped here for food and a drink after touring the Royal Yacht Britannia. The views were beautiful over the port and the experience was lovely.
Holyrood Distillery: Nestled right near Holyrood Park, this distillery had a laid-back feel and offered a good mix of whisky and gin for tasting. The staff were generous with their time and knowledge, and we appreciated how accessible the whole experience was, especially for folks newer to whisky. They also had a nice little shop with local products and cocktail kits.
For the kids (ages 2 and 3)
Camera Obscura & World of Illusion: Hands down one of the best family-friendly stops we made. It’s right near the castle and packed with interactive exhibits, optical illusions, and mirror mazes. My son was obsessed with the spinning tunnel and giant kaleidoscopes. It’s not just for kids, either—my partner and I found ourselves genuinely entertained.
The Royal Yacht Britannia & Corgi Treasure Hunt: The Corgi Treasure Hunt was absolutely a highlight of the trip for both me and my son. When we got on the yacht (which offered a military discount even to foreign military) the staff gave us a little map and checklist, and our toddler happily searched for stuffed corgis throughout the ship. When you turned in your “corgi count” at the end of the tour, you received a prize if you were correct. The yacht is docked at the Ocean Terminal mall, which also has a few food options and places to run around afterward. This is definitely a must see for any fans of The Crown.
The Potter Trail (Harry Potter Walking Tour): This was definitely more for us than the kids, but they didn’t mind. The guide was fantastic and knew how to keep things moving, pointing out JK Rowling’s writing spots and inspirations. It’s mostly outdoors, so layer up if you’re visiting in winter.
Edinburgh was such a lovely surprise. Even in the dead of winter, with unpredictable weather (we were pleasantly surprised with how much sun we saw) and short days, it had this cozy, magical charm that made the trip feel full and memorable—without being overwhelming. The city was easy to navigate, kid-friendly without trying too hard, and rich with history, good food, and little moments of wonder.
Would we go back? Absolutely—though next time, I’d love to explore more of the Highlands or make it up to the Isle of Skye. But for a long weekend, especially with little ones in tow, staying put in the city center was the perfect choice. If you’re considering a short trip to Edinburgh with young kids, don’t overthink it. Pack the rain gear, bring the snacks, and lean into the cozy pace of the city. It’s a place that doesn’t rush you—and that might be what made it feel so special.
